Cooking at Sainsbury's
In 1978, Sainsbury’s published Cooking for Christmas by Josceline Dimbleby – and what seemed at first to be a modest checkout-aisle title became the foundation of a publishing series phenomenon. Over the following decades, the Sainsbury’s cookbook series grew into an extensive collection that sold over a million copies and was written by some of the most admired food writers of the late 20th century. Ironically enough, however, the launch of the largely successful series owed much of itself to happenstance.
A Serendipitous Beginning
Dimbleby was already well acquainted with both John and Anya Sainsbury: her first cookbook published in 1976 titled a Taste of Dreams was a prized possession of the former ballerina. When the idea of producing a series of cookbooks was raised by her husband, the then chairman of Sainsburys, Anya suggested her friend as the natural choice. Dimbleby, having noticed that few dedicated books on festive food existed at the time, proposed a Christmas volume: and Cooking for Christmas was soon to prove itself a surprising hit with the public. This success served to set the tone for what would soon become a long-running enterprise.
Capturing the Mood of the Times
Sainsbury’s quickly requested a follow-up, and Dimbleby delivered Cooking with Herbs and Spices in 1979, inspired equally by her upbringing abroad and her enthusiasm for international flavours as it was by the climate of the era. The late 1970s and early 1980s were to mark a period of rapid adaption and advancement in British food culture. Affordable foreign travel was exposing holidaymakers to new cuisines, and many returned eager to imitate and recreate those tastes for themselves at home – and Dimbleby’s book, critically sold where people were already shopping for ingredients, was there to capitalise upon this growing interest.
Expanding the Series
Dimbleby would eventually contribute ten individual volumes to the collection, but she was far from the only voice. Through the 1980s and into the 1990s, the books proved increasingly popular -and as the series expanded dramatically, it enlisted a roster of celebrated and respected food writers, top chefs, and restaurateurs to the cause. Patricia Lousada, Anna del Conte, Claudia Roden, Anne Willan, Jane Grigson, Anton Mosimann and John Tovey were among the many names whose authority over the kitchen would serve to grant the books lasting credibility and legitimacy.
Editorial direction also played a crucial role. Jill Norman, working with Walker Books in the 1980s, had a particular vision in mind she intended to the authors she commissioned to provide their audience with: “good quality, from writers who knew what they were talking about, and whose recipes one figured one could trust. And good presentation.” Her approach was vindicated when the series received a Glenfiddich Food and Drink Awards Special Award in 1987, a level of recognition usually reserved for the very best in food and drink writing.
In addition to the recipe books, Sainsbury's produced a number of reference books and guides including 'Tea and Coffee', 'Home Freezing' and 'Balancing Your Diet'.
Try Your Hand at Some of These Recipes…
Interested to know if the food is as good as the books make them look? Take a look these three recipes, (courtesy of the Sainsbury’s Book of Home Baking, copyright Cathay Books/Carole Handslip), and see for yourself...
Angel Cake
Ingredients
- 25 g (1 oz) plain flour
- 25 g (1 oz) cornflour
- 150 g (5 oz) caster sugar
- 5 large egg whites
- 1 teaspoon vanilla essence
- Icing sugar for dredging
Instructions
- Sift the flours and 25 g (1 oz) of the caster sugar together 3 or 4 times.
- Whisk the egg whites until stiff, add the remaining caster sugar a tablespoon at a time and continue whisking until very thick.
- Carefully fold in the sifted mixture with the vanilla essence and turn into a 20 cm (8 inch) angel cake tin. Smooth the surface and bake in a preheated moderate oven, 180°C (350°F), Gas Mark 4, for 35 to 40 minutes, until the cake springs back when lightly pressed.
- Turn it upside down on a wire rack and leave in the tin until cold, when the cake will fall easily from the tin. Serve sprinkled with icing sugar. Makes one 20 cm (8 inch) angel cake.
Drop Scones
- 250 g (8 oz) plain flour
- 1 teaspoon cream of tartar
- ½ teaspoon bicarbonate of soda
- ½ teaspoon salt
- 25 g (1 oz) caster sugar
- 1 large egg
- 250 ml (8 fl oz) milk
- 1 tablespoon oil
Instructions
- Sift the dry ingredients together into a mixing bowl and make a well in the centre.
- Add the egg and half the milk and mix to form a smooth batter.
- Gradually beat in the remaining milk with the oil, mixing to a thick batter.
- Heat a heavy frying pan or griddle and grease lightly.
- Drop tablespoonfuls of batter onto the hot surface and cook until the top is blistered.
- Turn with a palette knife and cook until the underside is golden brown.
- Place the cooked scones inside a clean folded tea towel to keep them moist until all are cooked. Serve warm with butter. Makes 12 to 16.
Whisked Sponge
Ingredients
- 2 eggs
- 75 g (3 oz) caster sugar
- 50 g (2 oz) plain flour
- 114 ml (4 fl oz) double cream
- 2 tablespoons raspberry jam
- Icing sugar
Instructions
- Place the eggs and sugar in the mixer bowl and whisk on high speed for 5 to 7 minutes until thick and mousse-like.
- Fold in the flour carefully with a metal spoon, then turn into a lined and greased 20 cm (8 inch) sandwich tin.
- Bake in a preheated moderately hot oven, 190°C (375°F), Gas Mark 5, for 30 to 35 minutes, until the cake springs back when lightly pressed.
- Turn onto a wire rack to cool.
- Split the cake in half, then sandwich together with the cream and jam. Sprinkle with icing sugar.
Variations:
- Chocolate: Replace 1 tablespoon of the flour with cocoa powder.
- Coffee: Add 2 teaspoons instant coffee powder or crushed coffee granules with the flour.
(This author’s attempt at the last recipe – feel free to share your own versions with us by tagging our social media!)
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